Low frequency wave movements as related to the shallow seafloor relief

Abstract

To elucidate relief-forming role of long waves, fluctuations of wave levels were measured continuously throughout several days under conditions of both calm weather and all the phases of storm. The experiment was carried out in a very gently sloping nearshore zone and revealed the scale of wave motions to be about 1 km, which was in agreement with dimensions of most of constructional landforms on the sea floor. Another experiment was performed on a shallow far from the coast. The analysis of currents, temperature and salinity records suggested the water dynamics in the region to be under control of an anticyclonic vortex.