PROFILE OF A SANDY COAST: SOME FEATURES OF MORPHOLOGY AND SEASONAL VARIABILITY

I. O. Leont’yev

doi:10.15356/0435-4281-2012-4-22-32

PROFILE OF A SANDY COAST: SOME FEATURES OF MORPHOLOGY AND SEASONAL VARIABILITY

I. O. Leont’yev

https://doi.org/10.15356/0435-4281-2012-4-22-32

Abstract

Mechanisms forming a coastal profile both on wave shoals and in the surf zones are analyzed. It is shown that the whole active profile can be approximated by two concave curves crossing at wave-breaking zone. The model is developed to predict the profile deformations due to seasonal variations or cycles associated with the storm events. It is assumed that in case of balanced sediment budget the cross-section area of the active profile remains constant. Using this condition and the profile equations obtained one can predict the changes in a profile length and determine a coastline displacement. Model verification has been fulfilled on the basis of published field data.

Keywords

beach profile, mathematical model, sediment budget

About the Author

I. O. Leont’yev

Atlantic Branch of Institute of Oceanology RAS, Kaliningrad
Russian Federation

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Review

For citations:

Leont’yev I.O. PROFILE OF A SANDY COAST: SOME FEATURES OF MORPHOLOGY AND SEASONAL VARIABILITY. Geomorfologiya. 2012;(4):22-32. https://doi.org/10.15356/0435-4281-2012-4-22-32